Dsquared2 Women’s Spring 2017 RTW
Dean and Dan Caten were the last big show of Milan Fashion Week and they served up those period puffers using every showy material imaginable — awning-striped silks, gleaming taffeta, crystal-studded leopard prints and real mink.
And then they grafted this fashion oddity from the 1890s onto sweatshirts, bodysuits, minidresses, majorette jackets, tiny polos, trucker shirts and denim vests. Only the pink cape was spared.
The Eighties were called the era of excess for good reason, and the designing twins laid on its signposts thick and furious. Not since the peak of Christian Lacroix has a runway seen this much grosgrain ribbon, bitter green silk and meringues of taffeta — the latter applied without the finesse of the master couturier, and simply bunched onto tight miniskirts. It was all simply too much.
In the end, it was the denim that emerged as the most plausible thing to wear, recalling that famous 1988 Vogue cover that teamed jeans with a Lacroix couture jacket bearing a beaded cross. The Dsquared2 jeans came baggy, with blown-out knees, bleach stains — and occasionally — thousands of crystals, or clear sequins.
In other words, forget the fancy lamb, and stick with the twins’ bread-and-butter category.