Missoni RTW Spring 2017

Seasonality is a unique issue for certain houses — fur, swim and knitwear brands to name a few. Half the time their runway show is going to land in the off-season, which would be spring for knit maestro Angela Missoni. She can’t dig into chunky knits and artful pilings of cozy layers this time of year, and rather than veer from Missoni codes and supplement the collection with things that don’t belong, she’s chosen the path of least resistance for the last two spring runway lineups.

“I felt the need to go for something very simple,” said Missoni backstage before the show. “Not basic but for something calm, easy and relaxed.” Her decision to relegate the majority of the collection to lean, traditional tank and T-shirt dresses, as well as a few cardigans was shrewd or a bit defeated, depending on your interest in fabric techniques. She jazzed up the plain shapes with a big mix of color and novelty yarns aplenty, working in wide, multicolored stripes — some done in different weaves and textures within a single garment. The complementary contrast of pale blue, brown, lavender, white gold and yellow — all shot through with Lurex shimmer — sparked a tank dress out of the ordinary, and there’s a strong argument for clean lines as the best delivery for busy space dyes and embroidered lace knits, which were beautiful and likely far more impressive at close range. The most memorable look was a seriously teeny-weeny gold lamé bikini. Any more simple and it would have disappeared.

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